Only the stylist a menswear collection in the latest edition of the São Paulo Fashion Week, John Pepper’s done it all a bit till you see your name as one of the leading national fashion circuit beyond his own brand, is Creative Director of West Coast. Before being one of the forerunners for here wearing men with elements such as lace and acinturadas moulds, the miner began forming for the more traditional female costume might: the wedding dress.
In Porto Alegre for the launch of the Marathon CHANGE, an event which is mentor on the issue that occurs on September 25 and 26 days, John spoke with Donna about the direction of the fashion for them in Brazil and as the future of the industry is to open your eyes to this consumer, that little see represented.
John Pepper-seems to be a complicated thing, but it’s not, they are even more demanding than women, but the market faces towards them. I started doing female. Open a store and realized that the boys searched macaws looking for something that would fit in them. I noticed a giant field there. People think that the Brazilian man doesn’t want to try, not bold, but this is very unrealistic. The man has a very large headquarters for innovation. It’s challenging, because people still associate sexual orientation with the color of the clothes and the type of shoe, and the man still afraid to show bold. Sounds complicated, but it’s easy because there is a very large male market desire.
Donna-what they usually ask and seek more?
Pepper-it’s funny, because everybody wants the same thing: a small differential. They don’t want to dress exactly the same, but also have a certain limit. One of the reasons to dress well is to conquer women, and the cleverest know that they will pay more attention to someone more sensitive. The man still has a very great difficulty with this matter of delicacy. The woman knows how to have a good time with the clothing, every day is one way and takes this as a quality. They are caught in this sense, but they do not want to be equal.
Donna-Your brand is the only exclusively male on the SPFW. How do you see the market sets for them in Brazil?
Pepper-If there’s a place for fashion grow, is in the men’s ward. Already tried very to the feminine, so want to innovate in this area is to déjà vu. Before the woman would choose what they were going to wear, and today the man buys his own clothes. There is a need of market innovation in both the designers and the textile industry. We have a desire so big to do fashion brazilian and I believe investing in male can be a strong theme. The fashion weeks in the world today have at least one day back to male, or up to a week to them. There was a time in which the woman fought for your space, and today we see the opposite: the man having to fight for his space. The weaker sex now is us (laughs). The man doesn’t want to take space in fashion, but rather share.
Donna – As is the Brazilian style? What play they’re looking for more?
Pepper-A French or Italian man you identify easy. Now, the Brazilian, not. There is no brazilian male fashion because no one stopped to think about it. What would be a tropical tailoring? We are a hot country, so the fiber type and composition of tissues should be thought of in the industry. What can take the heat of a fabric? What kind of lining would help? And the question of colors as well: the man is very accustomed to black, Navy, grey. We need to open this card. The rascals cariocas of the 1930 are, for me, the icon. The black man cares more about fashion than the white man, and that comes from this history do malandro carioca, samba. See more language sets on them than on who wants to be Prada or Gucci. We need to stop looking at what happens outside and look inside, see what we found here. There is a very large desconexãoo of self-esteem that needs to be rethought.
Donna-You started his career in fashion by making dresses for brides. How did migrate to fashion masculine?
Pepper – today I do bridal clothes! (laughs) Wedding clothes for woman, seems to be something very complicated, but it’s not the wedding dress is very simple to do, because it is composed of effects. People who do Haute Couture will kill me for saying that! It is an ornate clothing, so the more you edge and volume, it adds up and turns it into something amazing. But it’s not as difficult as do tailoring for the man’s body. Women have easier ways, most beautiful drawing, while the man is straighter, more square. The male audience consumes more aware, does not follow trend, think that clothes have to be quality. When the groom realizes that has room, he always knows exactly what you want or not. On fitting, they are extremely demanding, not accept a seam that is not perfect. Men care about raw material, always question the composition of the fabric. When I did, I don’t remember them heard asking about it. I value the male audience because they have a disability, for not having options, and know what they want. The industry must turn to them and thinking: “you there!”.
Donna-I hear you and agree mentally. I’m sorry that when you buy clothes, and I constantly that I have pieces that you would see me using in ten years …
Pepper-it’s so weird when you’re in the closet and think, “Gosh, I’m going to have to take things”. How important are those pieces of truth, isn’t it? Perhaps most important is what lies ahead.
Donna-what were your first steps in style?
Pepper-I started working in the Casas Pernambucanas: I fell in love with clothes selling tissues. Went into the store to work as a Packer, with some 17 years. That’s when I started watching the boys riding displays. In this type of store, they ride with the fabric and make the moulages, which are the moorings. Shortly after, I was doing shopping and learning about the fabrics. I started working on a little of Ribeirão Preto (SP) creating pieces and fell in love. I really like counterpoints, male and female, poor, Rico, recycling. I have a very big respect for tissues, like it a lot, but not for me.
Donna-I wanted to comment exactly that: your personal style seems to be very timeless, without as much concern about what you wear.
Pepper – this may even become subject to therapy, but I have no passion for clothes for me. I don’t know if it’s because I’ve been to so many people that I don’t mind, I have no appetite to spend hours choosing an outfit, take the first one that I see in front. I do all that, but in my house is different. Unfortunately, because I’d love to have it any other way.
Donna-In your collection of 2016 summer, what he saw was a new androgyny. Recently, a large magazine also abolished the divisions of gender sections of their stores. Do you think this is the new way of fashion?
Pepper – Yes, you know why? I always imagined that the details are to enhance, but, in fact, the decorations just pollute the clothes. When we have a good and a very strong design, we won’t need embroidery, bows. When the clothes no longer have that, will not be intended for who was made. Today, we distinguish the clothing of men and women by the amount of detail, the colors. I’m sure that the future will be much more minimalist, and people will end up getting rid of as much detail. When that happens, the clothes will be more alike. Today is so nice the woman wearing the clothes of the boyfriend, but what about the reverse? There’s no way? It would be very interesting if the clothes were not obliged to define anything. You fall in love with the play by color or shape, but from what she represents to you. I often say that people should not follow trends, but rather his own intuition to each create their own wardrobe. To your collection should be created for you, joining of various brands things and editing something that your not come necessarily from women, even to have your identity defined.
Donna – in fact, you are in a trend of big names in the fashion business, brands take national as Dudu Bertholini on Lunender and Sequinned on Lez the Lez. How does this new niche market? It’s a way out?
Pepper-more than an alternative, is a solution. As much as we unfold, who does fashion today are the novels. It’s easier to digest something that people on TV than what you see on the runway. The fashion industry is not well saturated was also fashionista. It’s very hard to be copyright and maintain a brand in Brazil. Always took my brand with great difficulty. Make a collection is extremely expensive. There is a very big desire to do fashion, but it’s complicated. When you go under the umbrella of a large industry, which has money and can invest in your brand is also very comfortable, is a very fair exchange and the desire to return the same way. The West Coast also helps manage my brand, and I invested my energy and knowledge in them. The limit that I have to work does not come of them, comes from me. I know it has to be different than I do, but it is very safe for you to understand that you can walk through other avenues.
Donna – that inspire you?
Pepper-the difficulty of making fashion inspires me, the difficulty of not having raw material makes me want to make the fabric. It seems sad, but disability sets in Brazil is very inspiring to me. And also gives a certain anger. When I put a face on the catwalk with a skirt dragging on the floor, also is to cause people. Say I do clothes that won’t sell, I put income and hip in boys, but it is to argue. Is very inspiring to me to go against the grain. When they don’t like, sometimes it’s good. Depending on who doesn’t like, so it’s even better! (laughs)
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